Last 4 days of the trip--Sun., Mon., Tues., Wed., Sept 11th to 14th, Kansas to Home.

Last 4 days of the trip--Sun., Mon., Tues., Wed., Sept 11th to 14th,  Kansas  to Home.

This is the end of the 101 day, 16,000 mile wonderful journey across North America. I hope you have enjoyed the days and the adventures along the way. The pictures that have been shown are just a representative of the thousands of picture we took throughout USA and Canada. If you are interested in the DVD that we will have ready later this fall, let is know either on Face book, or here on the blog. You can also write us through e mail at crazy4birds@comcast.net . I would love to hear from those of you in India, Romania, China, Thailand, Canada, Italy and any other country  who have been following along through these months.

                                                                                          Windmills and corn

The four last days were through the United States heartland and what we call the “Plains” of the United States, where most of the basic crops for our food and many exports are grown. This is basically flat and fertile land ideal for the raising of row crops like corn and beans (soy)  In Kansas, Minnesota, MIssouri and Illinois are the great corn fields that stretch for miles and miles to the horizon, along with millions of acres of soybeans that are used for oils, mainly cooking oils and biodiesel. The remainder is used for animal feed as it is 38% protein. Corn of course has a multitude of uses and 50%  of it is grown in in these 4 states. 55% is exported mostly to Pacific rim Countries.

                                                                               "The Arch" at St Louis Missouri

We took time in Kansas and MIssouri to stop in two National Wildlife and Recreation areas to observe a few more bird species.  The birds were not as many as we had seen before, but it was good to see a few more. We ended up with 224 species total on the trip, and a few new ones for our “Life list”.  The  N. W. Refuge at Emporia Kansas was the Sand Hills NWR . One outstanding bird there was the Scissor Tailed Flycatcher that we had not seen previously. It was Saturday and the Refuge HQ. was closed so we were on our own. We did find a map of the area so got to most of the places of some note. It was quite open and skirted the Missouri River in places. The effect of the drought was seen as the grasses in that NWR were very dry.  Even in the RV Park there were wide gaps in the soil where the heat and dry air had cracked the earth into gaping fissures. Although it was early in September many trees were losing their leaves prematurely. The RV Park at Emporia was “surrounded” by two Interstate highways and one Railroad so it was very noisy. In town there was a street Festival as they turned  the main street  into a Carnival atmosphere with booths, rides and lots of food. Some of the lines for food were very long.  We did have a brief, 5 minute, heavy  rain that evening.

By Sunday we had  had communicated with cousin Barb and Chris Ramsey, (Shirley and Bob Atkinson’s daughter and son in law) to meet in a restaurant as we were headed north and would be a few miles from their home. We did that and ate at the “54 Grill” in the Truman Mall on US 71 south of Kansas City MO. It was a good visit and as we had not met before (at least not since Barb had been a young child) we had a lot to catch up on. Chris is retired military and headed back to school pursuing Pharmacy as a vocation. (The Truman Mall has the original homestead of the Truman family still standing.

                                                                                  Higginsville, MO water tower

From this point into Missouri there were few trees except for Juniper on the rolling hills of western Missouri. At times it was really reminiscent of the  old prairie of many years ago before the plow cut up the soil. In the middle of this route is the town of Higginsville in which is  a Confederate Memorial regarding the Civil War. We are reminded that  Missouri was a “border” state in the Civil War and sent 110,000- troops to the Union side and 40,000 to the Confederate side, hence the Confederate Memorial which was a home to Confederate veterans and their families for 60 years. That brought us across the Missouri River (south side)  and into Columbia MO, the home of the Missouri University (Tigers0 and that day a very large Bike Marathon  for Muscular Dystrophy. In that particular event. 3,500 bikers raised more that 1 million dollars for MS. In the Cottonwood Park where we stayed many bikers had camped that weekend so we were there at the end of their stay and by morning the campground was 75% empty.  Both of these days were sunny and moderate in temps at 75 F .

                                                                                    One of the Green Herons

While we were in Columbia we had the opportunity to “do” one last National Recreation Area along side the Missouri River. (The river still was at flood stage in some places)  This Eagle Cliffs National Recreation Area  (NRA) had many roads that were dry and very dusty. The effect on the truck was penetrating dust in every crack. There were however a few highlights that were unexpected. The best one was seeing seven young Green Herons in one place. A family evidently that had all made it through the summer and were in pretty good shape for the southward migration. We observed them for a long while  and took some pictures of their activities along an embankment by a pond. That was the most of that species we had seen ever in one place. This NRA has corn and buckwheat planted that was standing and it used to feed the many  geese (Snow and Canadian?) that come through here in migration the next two months. An MD from Columbia talked with us about the NRA as he and his wife came often and told us of an Eagle’s nest that we did not find. The gas price in MO there, was the lowest of the trip at $3.19 per gallon. (Ruth always said that MO gas was the cheapest.) 

Then it was through St.Louis , get a few pictures of the “Arch” at 55 miles per hour  and head into the heavier traffic on the east side of the Mississippi River toward Chicago on I-55.   We did stop overnight at Bloomington, Illinois in another RV PArk that had two Freeways and an RR track surrounding it.  On the way to this spot there are more than 75 wind generators on the flatlands of Illinois near Carlock, IL.  We did get good Wi-Fi here so we could still communicate by internet one more night.

The next morning , which was the last day, we headed up I-55 toward Chicago, but when we stopped for gas in Dwight, IL,  the lady cashier at the gas station indicated that we would do much better to go east and then north on I-65, rather than I-55 (NE) and then I-80 E as there was a lot of construction and we could save 2-3 hours  doing that. We took her advice and did save quite a lot of time and stress and got to see some of the “small town” America on the way. Ruth got a picture the “Welcome to Michigan” sign which will be in the DVD I am sure.

                                                           Eagle Bluffs National Wildlife Refuge

                                                                                    The Missouri River in Missouri

The last stop we made was to get the truck and trailer washed at the 76th St. truck wash in Byron Center.MI just off US 131. We did that and arrived home just after 5:00 PM safe and sound..

Thanks for ‘tagging along’ and if there are any questions or pictures that you would like to have, please e mail me (see above) or write a note on Face Book (Jim Strohmer ). It was a “trip of a lifetime” to be sure and we are thankful to be home again safe and sound.  We’ll let you know of our next adventure here on the blog!

Day 96, 97 Th. & Fri. Sept. 8,9 Dodge City to Emporia Kansas

From Lamar Colorado to Kansas City Mo the stockyards are many

                             In case you missed it this is milo, which makes bird seed and sorghum.                              

The are right in the middle of corn harvest now in Kansas

This is a view of  the prarie in Flint Hills NW Refuge near Emporia KS

A type of sunflower that has a yellow center, not black.

These are two views of Greensberg, KS that was devasted by a tornado in 2007

The upper photo shows the vacant land that was wiped ouut and the lower one 

shows one block of the newly built "grreen" housing. The town has made a great recovery

Look closely and you will see the "oranges" on the Osage Orange tree

Day 96, 97 Th. & Fri. Sept. 8,9 Dodge City to Emporia Kansas

Dodge City, What can I say? The home of the good guys (Bat Masterson, “Wild Bill” Hickock, Wyatt Earp and others), who chased, arrested and  and shot at  the bad guys like the notorious Clanton Gang, all died in the botched Coffeyville Bank heist except Emmett.  They also chased the bad guys  in Abilene and Wichita as well. This all happened  in the 1800’s when Kansas was young and restless. Even Jesse James  was in on one of Cantrill’s raids that killed over 200 citizens of Lawrence. But those were the days that were. Today, it, (Dodge City ) is a thriving cattle shipping center and wheat growing region and is a vital community of more than 23,000 souls. They have modernized the main street by making four lanes about 200 feet toward the RR tracks and leaving intact the old “main street” with all the old stores and saloons  visible from the new highway through town .(Main street) 

East of Dodge City , or “Dodge” as it is called locally, are slightly rolling hills filled with range land and some hints of milo and wheat . As we continue east the milo and wheat are more intense in production as are the evidence of many stockyards and feed lots holding 100,000 head of cattle fattening up and waiting for market. All along the highway the “SWOOSH” of the tall cattle trucks going by is constant. Grain trucks (corn and wheat) move through the roads as well. The land gradually gives way to some deciduous trees and many more fill the small valleys and arroyos until after Wichita when all of a sudden the land is rolling  prairie and not a tree in sight. This must have been what it looked like to the early travelers before settlements were established.

We did travel through the town of Greensburg, KS, which, in 2007 was hit by that devastating tornado that wiped out many homes and the entire business community. Today it has dedicated its return to life with a completely “green” use of codes and materials in the new buildings in town. (see pics) . The medical center was beautiful and fit the environment with sandstone colors that blended in with the land. It certainly is a tribute to the people of Greensburg and their perseverance.

A light rain shower came through as we neared Emporia, and the smell of the desert was evident. It is a unique and unforgettable smell. Rather sweet and pleasant to the nostrils. We checked in at the Emporia RV Park and as the manager was not home called him at his cell phone . (He does remodeling of vacant houses for a living.)   We took a space as per his instructions and settled in for the afternoon at 3:15. After a brief rest , we decided it was a night to eat out. Inasmuch as we were in “steak” country (lots of beef here) , we chose “Montana Mike’s” as the steakhouse of choice.  It was a good selection. Ruth had the special Ribeye  with potato, home made hot roll and a salad , and I chose the 1/2 rack of ribs with sweet potato and salad. It was excellent and tasty and when Ruth says that you know the steak was good .She will not say so unless it stands up to critical analysis. That was $30.00  well spent on good food plus some ribs still not eaten  for another day.  Jim topped that off with a “house” Margarita.

. Emporia is a bustling city of some 26,000 people.  The Emporia Gazette  is still owned by the Wm.Allen White  family . White started the Gazette in 1895 and was editor until 1944. He won a Pulitzer Prize (1923) for an editorial  and has written over 22 books. 

We did search the Flint Hills for birds today and did find some 29 birds . It was tough birding as we are in between the summer fledging and the fall migration. Perhaps the best bird find today and last night were two Great Horned Owls that perched in a dead tree about 100 yards from the trailer. I could see them from the trailer doorway.  We also got the car greased and oil change today, filled wth gas ($3.54) had a Dairy Queen (DQ) and got the last of the groceries we will need for the last three days. Tomorrow we will meet a cousin for lunch, the daughter of my Dad's niece, on our way through Kansas City. More on that tomorrow. Thanks for watching and if you want to leave me your e mail address on my Face Book or here in comments  I will communicate with you after we get home on Wed. search for Jim Strohmer.

Day 20 from West Glacier, MT., to East Hope Idaho

OLD LAKE MISSOULA

The drive from West Glacier to the Idaho border by the way we went is about 220 miles. That takes us south on US 93 through Polson, then through the Clark Fork Valley, a beautiful valley surrounded on both sides by the Lolo, Kaniksu and Kootenai National Forest alongside the Clark Fork River all the way. The peaks of the main mountains top some 5500 to 6500 feet. This valley is the result of a the outflow of the Ancient Lake MIssoula. The Lake was **4300 feet above sea level and about 2000 feet deep where the jam was formed by the glacial debris. It was about the size of Lake Ontario today. It emptied its water (glacial melt) in a very short time (days?) and at one time the flow was at a rate believed to be 8-10 cubic miles of flow per hour. At its’ greatest flow the Mississippi River flows at “only” .02 cubic miles of flow per hour. The Lake Missoula flow equaled all the flow of all the streams in the world. (There is only one other place today that does that. That is the tidal flow in the Bay of Fundy two times per day.) At any rate the Lake Missoula flood was the largest single outpouring of water in known geologic history. This valley has many other geologic wonders like the basketball sized rocks that were pushed along at 45 mph, and the “gulch filling” with sand (large single sand dunes) that has been left and seen today between the hills.

Gas in the Valley was about $3.58/gal

This year like much of the Plains, here in the Northwest the water is at flood stage much like ND. The Pend Orielle Lake is about 8-10 feet above normal and docks, farms and marinas are under water while the many Osprey platforms along the water are only 1-2 feet about the water line preventing the Osprey from nesting on them.

We arrived at Island View Campground at 3:00 as we gained another hour (PDT) and set up camp easily in a very quiet mostly wooded, long time used, campground. Many of the tenants have been here 25-30 years and counting.

Ruth and I took a short trip into Sandpoint to get a part I needed for a sewer hose that was broken and had supper when we returned (Taco Salad ). I watched for birds and although we did better than yesterday, we still only ID’d 24 including first sightings of a Black Billed Magpie, a Rufous Hummingbird and a Golden Eagle. The first and last ones were while traveling in the truck.

We have identified two good birding sites. One at the Bonner’s Ferry NWR , north of here, and just a few miles away at the Corps of Engineers site at the Clark’s Fork Estuary. We will try the latter tomorrow.

** Today Pend Orielle Lake is 2300 feet above sea level.

Day 94, 95 Tues. and Wed. Sep. 5th and 6th From Poncha Spring to La Junta CO

Day 94, 95 Tues. and Wed. Sep. 5th and 6th From Poncha Spring to La Junta CO

                                                     A stellar Jay at Poncha Springs feeders

                                The Rockies from the Contintal Divide at Monarch Pass (11,330')

                                                      Teh Arkansas River canyon in Colorado west of Canon City

These two days saw only one trailer move as we stayed two days in LaJunta Co. (Reason coming below).   Tuesday  morning in Poncha Springs at 9,000 feet was leisurely spent watching for the birds in the higher elevations and especially at the bird feeder the park owners had set up. Hummingbirds (Black Throated and Rufous) were everywhere. So was the BEAR that wandered through the camp ground that night making a mess out of a steel trash bin that wasn’t locked. It knew how to get into it. he also left a calling card in the park road.

          The drive was quite flat with many curves especially through the very twisty and rocky walled Arkansas River canyon. This opened It into a wider valley and then the cities of Canon City,  and Pueblo. The latter is a city now of more than 100,000 population and really booming. The area is heavy with ranching , cattle  (lots of holding pens) , truck crops and lots of veggies and some fruits. All of this area through La Junta is irrigated land from the Arkansas River water source. The Royal Gorge is near Canon City and it is a heavy commercial tourist stop now. We did not stop for that.  Many horse ranches all through this part of SE Colorado.  This time of the year there are many fruit and veggie stands and we did stop to buy at one of them. Our camping was at a KOA just outside La Junta.

                                                    Fruit and veggie stand in Canon City Colorado. Peppers anyone?

                The following day we had two objectives in this two night stand. First was to do some birding near a reservoir in the area of the town of Las animas called Martin Reservoir. The town of Las Animas’ name comes from the “Purgatoire  (sic) River and the River of Lost Souls”,. That was too long for the spanish words so ‘Las Animas ‘ was selected. We did many of the side roads in that area and did get the most birds we have had in many weeks. As there is more moisture here the bird habitat is better,. They are still in a drought situation as many trees have died as a result. See this web site for an animated map of the drought in the USA.     http://droughtmonitor.unl.edu/12_week.gif      One road was a haven for  hawks as in one spot we watched 5 hawks (three different kinds)at the same time, in flight and soaring above. (Swainson’s, Red Tailed, and Northern Harrier.) The day was mostly cloudy and one of the few we have had in the last month. The morning was cool at 60 degrees and you could feel the crisper air. Remember we had been in 90+ F heat for three weeks.

That afternoon was my turn to select a venue. I chose the home of the Koshare Indian Boy Scout troop right here in La Junta. This troop is more than 75 years old and specializes in Indian Dancing. They have been all over the world. (see their web site) They have a kiva,  and a Museum with millions of dollars in art collected along with Indian artifacts that have been donated over the years. When I was a teenager three men from the Koshare Indian Troop came to Detroit to teach 200 boys how to do some basic Indian dances for the 35th scouting anniversary. They stayed three weeks and we did put on a program that year. As a result of that experience and the men’s instruction a Boy Scout Post was formed that specialized , in Detroit, in Indian dancing, I was a member of that Post  as was my brother and about 20 other young men. We toured the midwest in the style of the Koshares for many years. So my trip there was  a nostalgic one and it was worth the “look see” for my Indian dancing roots. The Koshares are a well established an funded organization.

                     The Koshares have both a Boy Scout Trtoop and a Boy Scout Post of Dancers

                                    This is their main kiva for progarms at home in La Junta.

                           One of the many display cases in their museum where the kiva is located.

                                              A group shot of the Koshares at an earlier time.

                                                             The Koshare Museum and headquarters in La Junta ,CO

That as it for these two days, and tomorrow we go from in Indians in La Hunta to  the Cowboys in Dodge City Kansas. 

Day 91, 92 ,Sep 3,4 2011 At Moab , Canyonland N.P and The Needles

Day 91, 92 ,Sep 3,4 2011 At Moab , Canyon\land N.P and The Needles

The National Park named Canyonland has two sections. They are the north unit and the south unit. They look out onto the same Colorado, Green River confluence, but are 100 miles apart by road. The trip we took this time was to the south unit which is some 50 miles south of Moab toward the AZ border and then 32 miles west on Route 211. This entrance is a long slightly uplifted plateau, which begins to get into the arroyos and canyons as we get closer to the Colorado and Green river canyons. The sandstone in these formations is White and Red mesa Sandstone , slightly different from the Navajo and Magenta seen in Arches.  

                             This is Wilson's Arch actually on US 191 south of Moab seen from a pullout on the highway.

In this portion of the park there are a number of arches, but not nearly as many as  Arches NP.

The first attraction was Indian Creek Canyon a slow meandering stream that has over the millennia carved a very deep (1-2,000 feet deep) onto the surface before it empties into the Colorado.  (This part is miles downstream from here.) Here there is the world famous NEWSPAPER ROCK  images that have been left many thousands of years ago. The archeologists have not determined the dates of them  (See pic).

                                                                                      "Newspaper Rock"

Three cyclists (guys)  were getting ready to ride down the mountain all the way from the top. There is a lot of bike activity here in this park as well as the other two parks. The road gradually got to 6,000 feet as we got out into the open again and headed for the rim where the maximum view is located.

                                                                                  "Wooden Shoe " Arch

We saw “Wooden Shoe” arch which looks like a wooden shoe, Pot Hole Point filled with bubbles or “pot holes” , and the end of the road is Big Spring Canyon overlook.  This is a dynamic view that looks to the north and west and the  entire portion of both rivers and their canyons is seen from Moab to the confluence and from the central Utah where the Green River comes through the plateaus.  The relief is 4-5,000 feet in every direction. There is a hiking trail there that leads to the confluence of the two rivers, and is a 2 mile down hill trip (of course one must come up hill to get back).

                                                                            View from Big Spring Lookout

The lunch we had was at the tables at the Visitor Center a very well equipped building. There were gardens with identified plants in them ,like the Rabbit grass, Mormon Tea, sat grass and a few types of sage. This center and many others  are filled with good instructional tables and dioramas and certainly good gift and book selections. We saw a new squirrel (see pic) the Rock Squirrel. Yes, that is his ‘unique’ name. 

The last part of the day was to return to US 191 and drive 10 miles north  (tward Moab) to Route 211 and the road (22 miles) to the Needles Lookout. This is not in the National Park boundaries but the view from the needles encompasses all of the previous sights and more. (see pic). 

                                                                                       "Needles Overlook"

The view is about 60 -70 miles across all the canyons. The colors are indescribable. ON the way out we  came upon an Antelope close to the road and slowly drove along side as he wandered along about 30 feet from the car (see pic).

                                                                                              Antelope   

 It was the first large, four legged mammal we had seen in these parks. There are sheep, deer and others but it was hot and I can’t blame them for hiding in the shade. I would too.

It was still sunny and 95 degrees at 5:00 PM and time for a refreshing dinner in a cool restaurant. We chose “Zax” in downtown Moab which is an all purpose and slightly eclectic place, that had prime rib on special that night. Ruth had Prime Rib with baked potato and a veggie skewered while  I settled for the buffet, which was a salad bar, choice of soups (beer cheese or asparagus)  and your choice of pizza from a buffet of  a dozen pizza types. Oh, did I choose a doozy on the first one? It had hot sauce and what i thought were green peppers and feta cheese and onions. I took a big bite! Right! It was jalapeno not green pepper. Surprise!  Maria our waitress took good care of us. It was a god meal and we called it a day. 

Day 92, Sunday Sep. 4, 2011- Laundry and the Colorado River drive.

Yes, it looks like the last time we will have to do laundry as we have about 10 days to go and we can stretch the socks use and underwear for that length of time. So after breakfast we took the sheets off the bed, packed the laundry, got the necessary liquids and change (need quarters always) and headed onto town. Jim had already scoped put the three laundromats  in town  so we headed for the one between the Burger King and the McDonald’s Drive In. We were fortunate as there were washers available at 9:30 so we could get the full load in. Ruth likes to use four washer to speed up the process, and the campground had only 3. We had to dry some clothes more than usual but it was a low price at $8.00 for the entire laundry. We headed for the trailer and put the laundry away, ate lunch and drove toward the Colorado River. There is a 15 mile section of road that leads to a mine (The Potash mine). But at the junction of US 191 and Route 297 where we turned onto the road, there is a huge UMTRA project. The U.S. Department of Energy has started a project to move 16 million tons of uranium tailings from the banks of the Colorado River, near the city of Moab, to a permanent disposal site 30 miles north, near the town of Crescent Junction. This project is called the Moab Uranium Mill Tailings Remedial Action (UMTRA) Project. They have already moved 540,000 tons to a site some 30 miles north.  They move 25 rail cars each with 4 buckets  per day. M-F. THis hole is getting larger every day.

We continued on the road taking pictures of the walls of the River canyon which now were above our heads and very close (see pic). This road had two small campgrounds  (Rotary ran one) and many pullouts for pictures and also there is one “put in” for river rafts and canoes and kayaks to take the 15 mile stretch to Moab or beyond. (Very smooth water here,). One of the stops was a dinosaur track that was imbedded on a flat rock that had fallen off the cliff above. It was 80 feet above the river and a picture was difficult to get. Ruth climbed up to the rock...JUST KIDDING!... got a nice picture with the telephoto lens  set on the tripod even though it was a few hundred feet away.(see pic). It is a Thesaurus type , like PUFF THE MAGIC DRAGON. really, he was modeled after them. The lived in the Cretaceous period of the late Cenozoic Era or 135-165 million years ago. That would have been when those tremendous sand storms that swept across the continent were ending. Those sands created the sandstone we see here today. 

I digress!  We did see three Great Blue Heron on the pond by UMTRA. 

Many pictures later we arrived at the end of the road where the Cane Creek Potash mine is located. It is unique because of the method used to extract the potash ore. The mine began as a conventional underground excavation in 1964, but was converted in 1970 to a system combining solution mining and solar evaporation. Hence, no coal has to be used while evaporating the potash using a system of evaporation pits turning the potash into crystals. There are 300 days of sun here and a 5% humidity rate. Over 400,000 tons of coal a year are saved. (see pic). Ruth took more pictures on the return trip as the sun was at our backs most of the way, Th river twists and turns in wide smooth arcs with many dead bushes along the banks of the river, which are the invasive Tamarisk shrub. The eradication of these plants has lead to the dead ones seen along this stretch of the river where the Tamarisk  BEETLE has been introduced. That  has been successful and will kill the shrub over a period of time and reduce its growth. The invasion of this plant has altered the Colorado River in places already, so it is a huge problem. (See ‘tamarisk on the Colorado River’ in a search engine.)That was the end of the day and we retired to supper with toasted cheese sandwiches and veggies . Tomorrow is pack up and leave day, when we head east to Colorado and the Rocky Mountains. It looks like the 90 degree F day are  over. See you in the “Rockies”

Day 89, Thurs. Sep. 1, 2011 At Arches National Park near Moab UT

Day 89, Thursday September 1, 2011 Arches National Park

 Geologic lesson on the formation of the arches in Arches N.P.

We visited Arches National Park north of Moab, UT today and found it to be most pictorial, as well as being  great look at the landscape of this portion of he SW USA. The red sandstone  (Entrada and Navajo) is the outstanding feature in almost all rocks  and monoliths. The following brief scientific explanation can be a help to understand the pictures that accompany the article. I hope you will find time to read to and understand the formation of these rocks. Tomorrow we will do another National Park called Canyon- lands.  Enjoy the article and a few of the pictures that we took today..-Jim

Arches National Park lies atop an underground evaporite layer or salt bed, which is the main cause of the formation of the arches, spires, balanced rocks, sandstone fins, and eroded monoliths in the area. This salt bed is thousands of feet thick in places, and was deposited in the Paradox Basin of the Colorado Plateau some 300 million years ago when a sea flowed into the region and eventually evaporated. Over millions of years, the salt bed was covered with debris eroded from the Uncompahgre Uplift to the northeast. During the Early Jurassic (about 210 Ma.,The unit of time, geologically) desert conditions prevailed in the region and the vast Navajo Sandstone was deposited. An additional sequence of stream laid and windblown sediments, the Entrada Sandstone (140 Ma), was deposited on top of the Navajo. Over 5000 feet (1500 m) of younger sediments were deposited and have been mostly eroded away. Remnants of the cover exist in the area including exposures of the Cretaceous Mancos Shale. The arches of the area are developed mostly within the Entrada formation.

The weight of this cover caused the salt bed below it to liquefy and thrust up layers of rock into salt domes. The evaporites of the area formed more unusual salt anticlines or linear regions of uplift.  Faulting occurred and whole sections of rock subsided into the areas between the domes. In some places, they turned almost on edge. The result of one such 2,500-foot (760 m) displacement, the Moab Fault, is seen from the visitor center. (See pIcture)

(This is the Moab fault that dropped sme 2400 feet . Look across the valley on the left center of the picture. The visitor center of the Park is at bottom center. The Colorado River is the cut.) (See picture at right)

As this subsurface movement of salt shaped the landscape, erosion removed the younger rock layers from the surface. Except for isolated remnants, the major formations visible in the park today are the salmon-colored Entrada Sandstone, in which most of the arches form, and the buff-colored Navajo Sandstone. These are visible in layer cake fashion throughout most of the park. Over time, water seeped into the surface cracks, joints, and folds of these layers. Ice formed in the fissures, expanding and putting pressure on surrounding rock, breaking off bits and pieces. Winds later cleaned out the loose particles. A series of free-standing fins remained. (See pictures)

An example of the fins, now worn and well runded in th Park.

Wind and water attacked these fins until, in some, the cementing material gave way and chunks of rock tumbled out. Many damaged fins collapsed. Others, with the right degree of hardness and balance, survived despite their missing sections. These became the famous arches.

I hope that wasn’t too scientific for you , and helps with understanding the process over many millennia. Here are a few more ictures from the beautiful Park.

The "Gossips"

One of the "Windows"

Sandstone layering that has been uplifted

Sure, It's "Balanced Rock"

Sand Arch, duly named as my shoes were full of sand when I returned.

Not named.

Another of the "Windows"

Lonesome Arch

Later in the day ...Balanced Rock

Around the corner, a different "Balanced Rock".

Days 84,85,86 Sat., Sun., Mon., Aug. 27, 28,29 At Page, AZ.

Days 84,85,86  Sat., Sun., Mon., Aug. 27, 28,29 At PAge AZ.

Saturday.--These days were filled with activities  around the town of Page AZ, except for the trip to Flagstaff to see Ruth’s niece, Karrie,  and her family. That meeting never came to pass, and although both of us made the trip, (They live in Phoenix)  some place along the line we missed communicating the meeting place as we were both there but at two different places , which both thought the other had agreed upon. That was tough, as we had to find a way to consume the birthday cake we bought  for her husband , Beau. Both going and coming it was a beautiful drive through the cliffs and changing desert until the mountains of the San Francisco Peaks of Flagstaff.There were many Native shops selling jewelry and pottery on that US 89 route.

The following day (Sun) we were scheduled to take a boat ride with the Waweap tours on Lake Powell to Rainbow Bridge. When we went to the Lodge to meet the group on the tour there was no one there that was going. We got our barding passes and sat for more than an hour as WE had still been on Mountain daylight time and Page was on Pacific Daylight time. We started that day an hour early. That boat trip the 60 miles to Rainbow Bridge was eye eye opener.  Cap’n Jim and 1st Mate Laura did a fine job looking after the 1/2 capacity full, vessel that took us there in about 2 hours. Slowing for boat traffic was one safety procedure I thought was excellent. The views of the rock formations and the colors was fantastic.  Accenting the red sandstone that is so prevalent on this area were whites, grays and pinks thrown in. We arrived and Ruth stayed on the boat and I took the camera and the pictures. It was not a long walk but discretion is the better part of valor when the knee is  giving problems. Hence , Ruth stayed on board.  The walk was on a gravel path  and the temp was in the 90‘s with lots of sun, so I went slow and arrived just behind the main group. The heat was in the low 90’s, with less wind as we neared the Bridge. 

It is phenomenal to be sure. As tall as the Empire State building  and a bit wider than that.  It is truly a remarkable site that the Navajos have kept sacred all these dozens of generations. There are no commercial entites of any kind there but a huge boat dock.  We kept hydrated in the sun and on the boat and I think I consumed 10-12 cups of lemonade on the boat alone. We were greeted warmly by the captain on return with an apple and a granola bar if we chose. Ruth was happy with my pictures so I guess I “done good”. The ride back was similar with more chances to get pictures of the rocks and mesas and table tops in a brighter light. It was a fine trip that I would recommend to any who can do it.

That evening the wind came up and we had a very typical desert storm that skimmed by us, even though we were on the edge. It did bring , however , a wonderful set of rainbows and a beautiful sunset. All the campers in the area were getting everyone out to see the rainbow that filled the sky from one end to the other.

Then on Tuesday Ruth was looking forward to the Antelope  Canyon tour since April when she made the reservations from Michigan. It was truly both an adventure and a marvelous witness to God’s handiwork here on earth. The Natives revere this place as it is an ancient meeting place with some of the guides telling of how they used to play here as a child. Today the Nation (Navajo) makes money on the tours they have .The day we went there were more than 20 tours of 10-12 people each just in the 3 hours that we were going and coming. Our tour was a photographers tour so we had more time and privilege to take pictures with no interference of time schedules. Other groups were “walk throughs” and had limited time to finish (less than an hour).

 The "flame"

              It was an adventure as we boarded a 12 passenger, covered truck with 2 padded bench seats and handrails for holding. The first 1/2 of the ride was on blacktop surface (smooth) but the second 1/2 was through the deep sand roads that lead to the Canyon and that was very bumpy and rugged. Al, the driver and guide kept it in low gear all the way. When we arrived just about noon (the sun is high) there were about 9 trucks there with passengers. It is a thriving business for the Navajos.

Note the open trucks and the hand rails!

                 The tour begins with a short intro and then we were the canyon. Picture not an “Open” canyon, but picture more  a tall cave with light coming through at the top in places.  Also visualize scoured rock some 30-50 feet high above you as you walk through the canyon. See the twists and turns it makes at each footstep, each one being different keeps you always looking up to see how the light hits the walls in this big opening above you. Our guide, Al has been doing this for 11 years and knew each place to get a good picture, intimately. He assisted Ruth immensely, especially at the last 1/2 of the walk.  I believe he sensed that Ruth was  good photographer and he wanted her to have the best possible pictures. I had told him that Ruth has a good eye for photos, and he commented later after looking at her pictures...by saying “you were right, she does”. The canyon by the way is only about 1/3 of a mile long, but worth every step of the way. Hard to describe the canyon in writing , but a few pictures will give you an idea. The guides have a good sense of humor and make the walk enjoyable as well as pictorially perfect.The ride back to town was windier and hotter, but we made it in the 90+F heat. We celebrated that evening with rib eye steaks on the grill.  Ruth at the grill while Jim made the salad. Tomorrow will be Vermillion Cliffs and Marble Canyon and perhaps some Condors as they inhabit that area just north of the Grand Canyon North Rim.

Tuesday Aug. 30

This day we were to go to the Vermillion Cliffs and Marble canyon , both on 89 A heading for the road to the North Rim of the Grand Canyon. We did not intend to go to the Canyon, but as it was only 42 miles from the road we were on (89 A), we did get there in time for lunch.

Both the Vermillion Cliffs  and Marble Canyon can be seen easily from the road, and the picture taking possibilities are endless. Seeing the scoured and slick rock portion of the Vermilion Cliffs takes some hiking time into the “back country”. We did not do that.

At Marble canyon (bridge over the Colorado River) there is a  Visitor Center and a gift shop, and the walk across the pedestrian bridge is well worth the walk. Talking to Lucille at the gift store we found that seeing the Condors is not rare but they are not always around either. That day we concentrated on the bridge as they frequent there. We did not see them there nor any other place that day. Twenty five miles further on a sie  road is a Condor Release site (which will be on Sept. 10). I started to take that side road (only two miles long ) but it was so rough and pitted (washboard) that wI turned the truck around and came back.  (I needed that Tundra to pull a trailer some 2,000 miles yet.)  As we were quite close (42 miles) from The North Rim of the Grand Canyon we decided to end our viewing for the day there .Well, it actually was lunch time, but we did go. The road south from US 89 A  is AZ 67 and goes up hill definitely as we begin the climb onto the KAIBAB PLATEAU which get s up to 8,000 feet. Here again  the juniper is replaced at 7,200 feet (exactly and that is not  kidding), by the Ponderosa’s. Remember the ride to Flagstaff where same thing happened? It is beautiful with what appears to be a “parklike” appearance to the forests as the undergrowth is absolutely missing. On the road in,  the results of the last big fire in 2008 were seen for many miles. Quaking aspen is replacing it very quickly. Fires in the PLateau (National Forest) have burned 196,000 acres since 1996. The changing moisture conditions in the SW (much drier) has contributed to that as lightning is the largest cause of fires there (60%) and untended or “not doused” campfires are the largest cause (37%) of human caused fires.

The North Rim a has a very different “feel” from the South Rim. It seems more intimate, close, and has fewer lookout points that the South Rim. It also is quieter, less people, and seems cooler  at 8600 feet. (It is higher than the South Rim by some 2,000 feet) . We took some picture, had lunch over looking the canyon, saw a few birds, and returned to Page by way of Kanab  (89 A to 89 at Kanab) about 25 miles further than the way we came. It was a good day and we looked forward to more scenery on the way to Moab going through  Monument Valley AZ  and crossing the Colorado River at Moab once again.